Lighting installation in the Phoenix Valley

Recessed lighting is one of the most common upgrades in the Valley's newer master-planned communities, where many homes came with builder-grade fixtures. Newer slim LED fixtures mount right in the ceiling without a separate can, which means smaller holes and less work in the attic.

If you already have can lights, an LED retrofit kit is often the simple upgrade. It replaces the old bulb and trim, gives you more light, and uses much less power than the bulbs it replaces.

Layout matters as much as the fixture. We space lights so the room is evenly lit, and we keep fixtures clear of ceiling fans, joists and AC ducts. Fixtures that sit in contact with attic insulation have to be rated for it, and we check that on every job.

Overhead lights put your shadow on the counter right where you are working. Under-cabinet lighting fixes that, and it is one of the most useful upgrades you can make to a kitchen.

There are two common approaches. Hardwired fixtures run off a wall switch or dimmer and look the cleanest. Low-voltage LED tape or puck lights run off a small power supply, which needs a spot inside a cabinet. We help you pick based on your cabinets, your backsplash and how much wiring the walls will let us hide.

Kitchens have their own code rules for outlets and circuits. If we are opening walls for lighting, we look at the outlets too and flag any that are missing GFCI protection.

Outdoor lighting in Phoenix has to put up with direct sun, dust storms and monsoon rain. Every exterior fixture we install is rated for its location, and every outdoor connection is sealed against water and dust.

Landscape lighting usually runs on low voltage. A transformer connects to an outdoor GFCI-protected circuit and feeds the path lights, tree uplights and accent lights along walls. Low-voltage wire is easier to bury and safer around a yard, and LED landscape fixtures use very little power.

Most systems run on a timer, a photocell that turns the lights on at dusk, or an app. If you live in an HOA, check whether it has rules about exterior fixtures before you buy anything.

If your new LED bulbs flicker, buzz, or will not dim all the way down, the dimmer is often the problem. Many older dimmers were designed for incandescent bulbs and do not handle LEDs well.

The fix is matching the dimmer to the fixture. LED manufacturers publish lists of compatible dimmers, and some fixtures need a specific type. We check those lists before we install, and when a dimmer has a low-end trim setting, we adjust it to cut down on flicker at the bottom of the range.

It also helps to keep one fixture type on each dimmer. Mixing brands or styles on the same switch is a common cause of uneven dimming. If you are replacing a few bulbs at a time, tell us what is already up there and we will plan around it.

Smart switches let you control lights from your phone, set schedules, and turn the porch light on when you are away. Many of them need a neutral wire in the switch box, and plenty of older homes do not have one there. We check your boxes before you buy, so you do not end up with a switch that will not work.

Three-way and four-way setups, where one light has switches in more than one place, need smart switches built for that job. We wire them so every switch location does what it should.

We set up and test each switch before we leave. If a room only has a switch at the far door, we can add another one where you actually walk in.

Indoor lighting can be done any time of year, but attic work is easier and safer outside the hottest months. If you are adding several recessed lights in summer, we plan the attic part of the job for early in the day.

For outdoor and landscape lighting, fall and spring are the most comfortable seasons to work in the yard, and you will have the lights in place for the cooler months when you actually spend evenings outside. If you want lights finished before a holiday or a party, call well ahead.